Glacier country

Franz Josef

Fox glacier river bed

After spending 3 nights on the west coast our next stop was Franz Josef. Where, unbelievably on a South Pacific Island only a few kilometres in from the sea and at 300m above sea level there are several glaciers. Franz Josef is the first one we come across on our route south. It measures about 12km in length and can be seen from the car park at ground level. The day we arrived it was very cloudy and the top was not visible entirely.
We parked the camper and along with many other people walked for about 20 minutes along paths and the glacial river bed to get a better view, and as we did so, the clouds cleared and we were able to see the 'blue ice' at the top. Many visitors had taken helicopter trips to view the glacier from above, or hired guides to walk either up or down it. We are used to skiing on glaciers in europe, but this somehow, was different. Quite surreal. We spent 2 nights here, all the while trying to coax Hugo into doing a helicopter trip. Nothing would budge his refusal. For some reason on this trip, Hugo has become much more cautious than ever before. An example of this was on a visit to the Kiwi centre in FJ. The kiwi bird is nocturnal so viewing is in a darkened mock-up of a kiwi's habitat, with the help of infra-red lights. Hugo managed as far as the door leading to the kiwi house before  he turned and ran! It took a lot of coaching / bribing / scolding  before we made a return visit later in the day to view the 3 adorable birds. Kiwi's are now his favourite bird and 'glaciers are rather boring, mummy'

Franz Josef

To Greymouth and Hokitika

Wednesday March 2nd we travelled along the coast road to Greymouth. This area is well known for its mining of coal nowadays (and gold over a hundred years ago), and is where the sad event of last November, when those poor miners lost their lives down the Pike River mine.
We had not been prepared for the dramatic change in scenery as we drove along. Stunning views. Tropical rainforest meets the Tasman Sea.  Nicau ferns and the rocky coastline was staggering to see.
The 'Pancake Rocks' at Punakaiki were a great stop for a short walk and photos of limestone rock formations along with a blowhole.
This area is also a good place to buy Jade/Greenstone in New Zealand.
 The next day we visited 'Shanty Town' a replica gold mining village, where Hugo was thrilled to ride a steam train and Michael was thrilled to find 'Gold' when gold panning, Bea was thrilled to eat Icecream.
Thursday we visited Hokitika, a little town on the coast which thrives from tourists flocking in by the coach load to buy Jade.

Tasman Sea meeting rainforest north of  Greymouth

Artwork on Hokitika beach

Gold-panning

Pancake Rocks

Heading for the West Coast

It was rather sad to leave the 'chilled out' area of Nelson and Golden Bay but we did have some kind of time scale to keep to, be it quite relaxed. We headed up to the Nelson Lakes country (the only route to the west coast). The hilly going on mountainous region was quite beautiful. As we drove to look for the DOC (Department of conservation) campsite that was on Lake Rotoiti, we were suddenly stunned by the vista as we arrived (despite the camp having 'No Vacancies').

Lake Rotoiti

It was quite late for us to find 'No Vacancies' (about 6.30pm)at Saint Arnaud, and it wasn't for another 2 hours of driving and searching that we found a campsite by the side of Highway 6 just short of Murchison. A quick pasta supper for all and we settled down for the night joined by approximately 300,000,000 midges and  100,00 sandflies. The site was also next to the Buller River (well known for salmon fishing). 

The journey  to Westport next morning/lunchtime was another scenic adventure. Lots of twisting, winding roads, through gorges, over narrow bridges, with jungle-like vegetation left and right. Just before our destination we pulled over to a 'lay-by' to honour the victims of the Christchurch earthquake with a 2 minute silence of our own at 12.51pm.

The weather seemed to close in as we arrived and that night saw the worst winds and rains that we had ever experienced. The camper swayed and rocked with the gusts and the rain pelted on our roof. 

Buller Gorge

Cape Foulwind

As always, it seems, in NZ , the next day was much better and we set off to look at another seal colony at Cape Foulwind (aptly named by Captain Cook).

Photo Gallery of Nelson and Golden bay

February 24th-28th

Nelson, Tahunanui beach

Who's in there?

Local talent

Mapua wharf

Water Taxi at Marahau

Pohara beach sign

 1 of millions

Collingwood beach

Boogie board chick

I'm the naughty rascal!

Back to Picton

Monday 21st February, the afternoon after the 'not such a good idea' whale watch trip, we headed back up the scenic highway to Picton (gateway to the south island). Hugo was keen to check out a miniature railway that was closed when we had previously arrived .... we duely drove back to the railway again, to find it still closed. Even this is still 'summer' we have found a lot of attractions only to be open at weekends.
We checked in to our campsite and found the swimming pool, which quickly cheered the children up.
Next day we awoke to the sound of rain and saw very low cloud (or fog, same thing?) out of the windows. Shame because today we had planned to do the Queen Charlotte Drive, a scenic drive from which can be seen the sounds from great high up view points! ....Pictures to follow ....

Where is the sun?

The drive is incredibly winding and narrow, but it was worth it despite the lack of good weather to make it look even more stunning.
We stopped in Havelock for lunch at a well known spot called 'The Mussell Pot'. It was here that I had a text from my brother in the UK asking if we had experienced any 6.3 earthquakes recently? That text came 40 minutes after the quake had happened. He had noticed the end of a news bulletin before going to bed at half past midnight. During the day we gathered more information of the quake and its devastating effect. That night we ended up camping at Cable Bay. A beautiful, quiet and remote part of the coast. But unfortunately we had no internet access or mobile signal to make contact home or to read any news. It also gave us our first experience of the dreaded 'sand fly'. Worse than mosquitoes.

Lunch time in Havelock

Remote in Cable Bay

Wednesday 23rd February we left Cable bay and headed for Nelson. As we approached the town a barrage of text messages came through both our phones from friends and family checking that we were not near the devastation in Christchurch.....

Kaikoura

After a lovely 2 days in the land of Sauvignon Blanc, we ventured further along the Marlborough coast (stunning scenery) to Kaikoura. Famous for Whale watching. Along the route we stopped at Wharanui to look for our house sitters (Todd) father, who would be at the beach collecting his crayfish pots. The beach was beautiful. 3 colours of turquoise was the ocean and the beach covered in grey volcanic pebbles of varying sizes. The backdrop of lush, bush covered hilly terrain. We failed to spot Todd's father sadly. (We had had tea with Margaret, his mother, and sister, Nina though, the day before).
We stopped next to view a colony of NZ fur seals sun bathing and swimming off rocks just by the highway.
Finally to the next camp at Kaikoura, where we were tightly packed in with other avid whale-watching campers.

View of the road from the back seat

Baby fur seals in a rock pool

The road into Kaikoura

 Monday 21st Feb we were woken at 5.30 am by the sound of an air raid siren, which is the signal for the volunteer fire brigade to assemble for duty. As we looked out of the camper in the dark we could see, and smell, smoke billowing out of a building across the road..... quite frightening. Luckily it wasn't anything to do with the campsite, but a fast food chicken outlet smouldering away.
Anyway, by 6.45am we were up, dressed and waiting in the departure lounge for our boat trip out to watch whales. By 7.15am Hugo had refused to get on the bus to the boat quay, and had further refused, by running away from the boat! .... As they had announced 'high sea sickness' warning and a swell of up to 1m, I thought it best not to pursue Hugo's refusal and gave in to him. Unfortunately Bea and Daddy carried on with the trip.... The photographic evidence (or lack of) proved what a bad idea it was to have taken the boat out that day! Poor Bea (very sick)..... Poor Michael (very covered in sick) ....

The best picture!

Crossing the Straits

We were so lucky ... We had a sunny day and the wind was not strong ... I dread boat journeys, especially across one of the 'windiest stretches of waters in the world'. Mummy spent the 3 hours on the deck staring at the horizon (and spotting A dolphin!) while daddy supervised B and H in the childrens play area. Its wonderful to be able to see both the north and south islands at the same time while crossing. The last hour of the trip is the awesome cruise through the Marlborough Sounds. Unbelievably spectacular...

Faking a smile

South island on left, North on the right

Queen Charlotte Sound

I'm a little teapot...

Hairs away!